Step 1: Determine the natural level of the hair
- Analyze the client’s natural level by holding the Natural Series swatches against the client’s regrowth area and determine which one achieves a blend of the same level
- Remember, you are only looking for the level of the natural hair, not the tonality
- If the natural hair level falls between two levels, choose the lighter level when depositing color (going darker), or the darker level when lifting color (going lighter)
Step 2: Determine the desired level / desired tone
- Select the appropriate color shade utilizing your swatchbook for reference
Step 3: Define levels of lift, deposit, or tonal change
- Use the developer / levels of lift chart to determine the Developer required to ensure proper lifting during the coloring process.
Step 4: Determine the percentage of gray
- Identify the correct percentage of gray to assess how much of the Kenra Color Natural Series should be incorporated into the formulation. Reference our gray coverage chart
- When hair is 80% gray or more, a 20 Volume Developer is recommended
- The recommended processing time is up to 40 minutes
Step 5: Identify the underlying pigment
- Determine the underlying pigment at the desired level you are coloring to
- Assess whether it will enhance the desired color shade and tone or if you will need to add a neutralizing color to the formulation to control the underlying pigment. Reference our underlying pigment chart.